BEYOND HAUTE COUTURE IN THE EYES OF HELMER JOSEPH.

Montreal fashion designer Helmer Joseph was able to revive old models of Christian Dior dresses in collaboration with the McCord Museum and versatility made its mark. After closing shop in Montreal, he returned to Haiti to give training and open the Institut d’excellence de mode contemporaine. He then received the invitation to collaborate with the McCord Museum to make three Christian Dior dresses from the 1950s.

However, this was not the first collaboration between Helmer Joseph and the Mccord Museum, as he previously worked on several other projects such as exhibitions, a parade, and the 90th anniversary of the Montreal Museum.

"My Parisian experience and my training in haute couture have helped me a lot," he said.

The making of the Bella, Dolores and Arthénice dresses was a long-term project but was not new to the designer who worked at Dior during the 90s and 2000s.

"I worked on the dresses for a long time," he explained. He spent between four and five days doing the petticoats, making sure he applied Dior's old-fashioned manual sewing techniques from the 1950s. He was, for once, able to take the time to admire his work.

"To be able to do it, and to be accompanied by professionals who saw the evolution of the work was extraordinary."When it comes to his working technique, Helmer Joseph describes himself as versatile. He did by himself a sewing project that would usually take up to three workers. “I took the time to learn my profession. I have done embroidery, hats, I do shoes, makeup, tailors and jewelry. I have spent my life learning and training to have this autonomy, "he shared.

"I worked on the dresses for a long time," he explained. He spent between four and five days doing the petticoats, making sure he applied Dior's old-fashioned manual sewing techniques from the 1950s. He was, for once, able to take the time to admire his work.

"To be able to do it, and to be accompanied by professionals who saw the evolution of the work was extraordinary."When it comes to his working technique, Helmer Joseph describes himself as versatile. He did by himself a sewing project that would usually take up to three workers. “I took the time to learn my profession. I have done embroidery, hats, I do shoes, makeup, tailors and jewelry. I have spent my life learning and training to have this autonomy, "he shared.

“All my childhood I watched weddings go by, and the funerals that went to the cemetery every morning before going to school,” These childhood memories have influenced his tailoring in his past fashion shows, to which he has incorporated funeral attire. "I think I kept the spirit, the image of women who are always well-dressed, sober, without vulgarity. Maybe that's the reason why I like gloves in my runway shows,” he said, referring to the '60s fashion in Haiti.

For Helmer Joseph, haute couture is complex. He explained that for a model to be considered haute couture, numerous craftsmen must have worked on it. He described the entire process as a compilation of talent. In his eyes, it is not just about haute couture, but it is rather the result of the work of a team of craftsmen.